Our trip began in a historic hilltop town in Basilicata, so it felt right to spend the last part of our stay in Puglia in another one: Ostuni. We used it as a base for exploring the surrounding area and were delighted with our choice.
In Part One of the Puglia trip, we covered Matera and the Salento coast. The second half of the trip took us inland and north, into the whitewashed hill towns of the Valle d’Itria, before finishing on the coast in Bari for our flight home.
Ostuni: The White City
We based ourselves in Ostuni for two nights at Dimore del Tempo Perso – Mare Videre. We left the car in a nearby car park for the whole stay rather than moving it between outings.
Ostuni is known as the “White City” for the lime-washed buildings that climb its hilltop. The traditional explanation links the whitewashing with protection against plague, while lime itself had useful disinfectant properties. Today, it remains one of the most recognisable and photographed townscapes in Puglia.
Our apartment (Via Gaetano Tanzarella Vitale 70, 72017 Ostuni) was on the small side, especially the bedroom. It made up for that with its own roof terrace and a proper view across the rooftops. The funniest part was getting out to the terrace through the bedroom window. We spent our time in town on foot, wandering the old town and taking the pace down a notch.
Room: €131 for two nights plus tax.
T42 Vibe – Dimore del Tempo Perso – Mare Videre
| Category | Rating | Verdict |
| Couple Factor | ▰▰▰▰▰ | Excellent |
| Comfort | ▰▰▰▰▱ | Very Good |
| Location | ▰▰▰▰▰ | Excellent |
| Value for Money | ▰▰▰▰▱ | Very Good |
| Facilities | ▰▰▰▰▱ | Very Good |
| Atmosphere | ▰▰▰▰▱ | Very Good |
T42 Vibe – Overall: ▰▰▰▰▱ 4.5/5
Locorotondo, by Way of Alberobello
On our second day we took a detour around the wider Valle d’Itria. On the way back we passed near Alberobello, famous for its conical-roofed trulli houses. We had visited it on an earlier trip to the region, so we didn’t stop this time and carried on to Locorotondo instead.
Locorotondo is a smaller, quieter hill town. Its circular historic centre – the name translates roughly as “round place” – is built largely from local white stone. We timed our visit for sunset, which turned out to be the right call. The views over the surrounding vineyards were excellent. The old town after dark, lit and largely empty, made for one of the nicest unplanned walks of the whole trip. We left the car at the Piazza Antonio Mitrano car park, a convenient base for exploring on foot.
It was already dark by the time we had to hurry back to Ostuni. Next time, we would arrive earlier and give ourselves longer to enjoy the atmosphere.
Grotta del Trullo, Putignano
On the same loop we stopped earlier in the day at Grotta del Trullo, a cave system near Putignano. We paid €5 per person for the guided visit, guide included. It’s a quick detour rather than a destination in its own right, but an interesting one – and a reminder that this part of Puglia has as much going on underground as above it.
It was probably the first time we had gone into a cave vertically rather than horizontally. There was a lot of beauty in that. You go down spiral steps with stalactites all around you. The different way of seeing a cave makes it worth a visit on its own, even before you count the caves themselves, which are exceptionally beautiful.
Olive Oil Tasting at Azienda Agricola Savoia
The highlight of this leg, though, was booked well in advance: an olive oil tasting at Azienda Agricola Savoia, held at around midday. At €25 per person, it was led by professional tasters who assessed each oil properly rather than simply pouring and talking.
We bought a few bottles to bring home. Since then, we have placed an order directly with the estate once their new-season oil had been pressed, which is about as strong an endorsement as a tasting can earn.
The oil we prefer has a peppery finish and looks very green and fresh. To be honest, we order several varieties and all of them are exceptionally good. We like Sicilian olive oils very much, but this one is a strong competitor. Another advantage is that the producer delivers, so you can keep restocking after the trip.
A Last Night Near Bari
For our final night we stayed at Parco dei Principi Hotel Congress & SPA, close to the airport (Prolungamento Viale Europa 6, Bari Palese, 70128 Bari). It was a sensible choice given our early flight the next morning. It was quite expensive at €138.24 for the room, but with its proximity to the airport and very good, modern facilities, we felt it was worth it.
After checking in, we went back into Bari itself for a walk along the promenade and through the city centre. It is a genuinely appealing city, and one that felt worth a proper return visit rather than the brief taste we gave it this time.
We had used Bari airport before but had never actually been into the city, and this visit was very short too. If we fly into Bari again, we’ll allow more time to explore it properly.
We spent the rest of the evening at the hotel, where dinner turned out to be a highlight rather than an afterthought. The grilled octopus in particular stood out. The hotel’s spa, including a sauna and salt rooms, was available at €20 per person at the time of our visit. It was a pleasant way to end these days of driving and walking before an early start the next morning.
Looking Back on a Puglia Winter Trip
Travelling around Puglia in January meant trading peak-season crowds and beach weather for something quieter: empty viewpoints in Matera, a front-row spot at one of Italy’s great folk traditions, and hill towns we could wander without jostling for space. It was also more convenient travelling in the tourist season – less crowds, more space.
It’s not the Puglia most people picture. But between the Fòcara, the olive oil we’re still ordering and that sunset in Locorotondo, it’s very much the one we’d recommend.
For us as a couple, this trip really delivered. We avoided the crowds, and some evenings we ate in restaurants as the only customers. That gave our evenings a very special, romantic feel.
More Italy: Italy Travel Guide for Couples, Puglia to Palermo: A Road Trip Through the Heel of Italy and West Sicily
Travel42 UK is a couples travel journal dedicated to immersive road trips, slow travel, and destination storytelling.
Explore More of Italy:
The long way round, as a couple
About the Author
The author, ainarsbl, is a Level 7 Google Local Guide, Master Reviewer and expert travel reviewer focused on scenic landscapes, UNESCO sites and meaningful couples travel experiences.