I’ve been to Greece many times: for business, for pleasure and, more often than I’d like to admit, simply in transit. Yet I’ve never written about it. This post is my overdue introduction.
It starts with Athens, a city that rewards couples who enjoy history, a little chaos and a hotel with a sea view to return to. Athens deserves as much attention as Rome, but this particular trip was really about the island of Evia. Athens was a one-night stop before we drove to Chalkida and continued north to the island, where we had booked a hotel for the rest of our stay.
Greece is a Mediterranean country in southern Europe, at the southern end of the Balkan Peninsula. For that reason, it belongs in our Balkans Travel Guide for Couples just as much as Bulgaria or North Macedonia.
Evia, meanwhile, is less familiar to many holidaymakers. It lies off the eastern coast of mainland Greece, close enough to Athens to make a relatively easy road trip. While many visitors head for Santorini, Crete, Sifnos or other Greek islands, Evia offers a different experience: a quieter destination with scenic roads, beaches, thermal springs and plenty of opportunities to explore at your own pace.
Greece at a Glance
You don’t need me to tell you that Greece is famous, but a few numbers help set the scene.
- Size: About 132,000 square kilometres, roughly comparable in area to England. It is slightly smaller than Nepal or Bangladesh, larger than Nicaragua and about half the size of Colorado, if you prefer American comparisons.
- Population: A little over 10 million people.
- Islands: Greece has thousands of islands and islets, of which around 200 are inhabited, although the exact number depends on how they are counted. The largest include Crete, Evia, Lesbos, Rhodes and Chios.
- Crete: At just over 8,000 square kilometres and approximately 260 kilometres long, it is a substantial island. Its width varies considerably, making it an excellent candidate for a road trip of its own – something we plan to do one day.
Athens: A Capital with a Very Long Memory
Athens is home to around three million people if you include the wider urban area. It is one of Europe’s oldest cities, with a history stretching back more than 3,000 years, and is inseparable from names such as Plato and Aristotle.
Most visitors come for the ancient temples, theatres and the Acropolis. The city also has a quieter treasure: Daphni Monastery, part of UNESCO’s group of Byzantine monuments in Greece. It attracts far fewer visitors than the Acropolis, making it an appealing alternative if you want to explore another side of Athens.
The Acropolis: Worth the Climb
Acropolis means ‘high city’, and you understand exactly why when you climb it. The ancient complex crowns a rocky hill in the middle of Athens.
Its most famous monument is the Parthenon, a temple dedicated to Athena, the goddess of wisdom and strategic warfare – my favourite Greek goddess. According to mythology, she sprang from the head of Zeus, which is not quite how we would expect anyone to arrive in the world. The Romans knew her as Minerva.
The Parthenon was completed in the 5th century BC, and what you see today is the surviving ancient structure, alongside the results of centuries of damage, restoration and reconstruction.
The climb is rewarding, and the views over the city are superb.
Practical Tips for Couples Visiting the Acropolis
- Tickets: The Acropolis archaeological site and the Acropolis Museum are separate attractions, and each requires its own ticket. Timed entry is used at the Acropolis, so booking ahead is sensible, especially in summer.
- Guided tours: These can cost considerably more than standard entry. We didn’t take one, so I can’t say whether the extra expense is worthwhile. If you’re happy to read up beforehand, standard admission may be all you need.
- Parking: If you’re travelling by car, there are car parks near the foot of the Acropolis. We used the one at Rovertou Galli 39. Expect parking to be busy, particularly in summer.
Driving in Athens: Go Early or Go Late
A word of advice from experience: avoid driving through Athens during the day if you can, particularly in busy residential areas. We drove early in the morning and late in the evening, and it made all the difference.
On a different trip, I once waited a long time for a taxi that never arrived. In the end, I walked several kilometres, and it paid off: the traffic was so heavy that I overtook many cars on foot.
Athens traffic has a character of its own, and couples travelling by car should plan around it.
Where We Stayed: A Hotel by the Sea
We landed at Athens Airport late in the afternoon and, rather than stay in the centre, chose the Tropical Hotel on the southern outskirts of Athens for our one-night stay.
It is a little over ten kilometres south of the Acropolis, close to the coast and south-east of Piraeus. For us, it was a good way to combine a city visit with a seaside base. The downside is the distance from the airport: around 30 kilometres, or a little under an hour by car. However, that worked well for our particular plan.
In my Google Maps review, I described the location as very convenient, the rooms as clean and tidy, the staff as welcoming and the breakfast as good.
We were lucky to have a sea-facing balcony, which gave us a lovely view over the water in the morning. For a short stay, I thought it offered good value.
Is Athens Right for Your Next Couples’ Trip?
Athens suits couples who enjoy history and don’t mind a little urban energy. Stay near the sea if that appeals to you, do your sightseeing early and plan your driving around the traffic. It also makes a good starting point for exploring more of Greece.
There are downsides, though. Once you’re outside the city centre, particularly in residential areas, getting a taxi to take you elsewhere can be difficult – at least in my experience. That was true even when our next stop was the city centre.
Evia: Greece’s Quieter Island for Couples
Now for the main part of our trip.
I’ll focus on the main places and attractions here, because Evia works particularly well as a road trip. There are plenty of places to stay and many spots worth stopping at, some of them quite by chance.
The natural scenery is beautiful, and the autumn weather can be excellent.
Getting There: Crossing at Chalkida
We travelled from 15 to 19 October. As I mentioned at the start, we drove to Chalkida, crossing the New Evripos Bridge onto the island.
It is an impressive piece of engineering. On our return, we also crossed the Old Bridge of Chalkida, which is more like an ordinary bridge.
After making our way through the town, we stopped on the outskirts of Chalkida to buy fresh food and fruit before heading straight north to Loutra Edipsou.
Where We Stayed in Loutra Edipsou
Our base was the Sagini Hotel, a family-run hotel a short walk from the seashore.
It was convenient to stroll down in the evenings for dinner. The food, as we found throughout Greece, was fantastic, and enjoying it with a glass of wine didn’t cost a fortune.
Beaches and a Winery near Loutra Edipsou
From our base, we visited quite a few places in the surrounding area.
We particularly liked the beaches at Kavos, about 30 kilometres from Loutra Edipsou along a road that mostly follows the coastline. It deserves a full beach day: lovely sand, a calm sea and the kind of natural setting that makes it easy to relax properly.
On the way back, we stopped at Vriniotis Winery. The food and wine were both enjoyable, and the setting offered views worth taking a break for, especially if you enjoy photography.
Pebble Beaches and Drymonas Waterfalls
Another day, we headed towards Paralia, on the other side of the island.
We found a lovely pebble beach, and on the way we stopped at a tiny waterfall in the middle of nowhere. It turned out to be the most memorable stop of the day.
This was Drymonas Waterfalls. The area is remote, but nicely maintained, with pathways allowing you to explore the surroundings. We had a picnic lunch there and enjoyed the natural setting.
The location is near V7FV+2M, Istiea Edipsos 340 05, Greece. The approximate coordinates of the small lake with the Drymonas Waterfalls are 38.872407, 23.293387.
A Driving Tip for Evia: Scenic Roads That Don’t Go Anywhere
There are plenty of pretty roads through olive groves if you turn off the main routes. However, some simply end before you reach the place you were hoping to get to.
On one occasion, we tried a shortcut to another main road, only to find it blocked by rocks that would have been difficult to pass even in an SUV. After some effort, we managed to get through.
If you’re a less experienced driver or travelling in a smaller car, it’s better to turn around, even if going back means a significant detour.
Hot Springs on the Beach
During our days in Loutra Edipsou, we loved walking to the local hot springs.
There is a thermal bathing spot in the southern part of town. We’ve experienced thermal baths inside buildings, as in Baden-Baden, and in open-air settings, as in Thailand and some parts of Eastern Europe. This one, though, was on the beach.
The water comes straight out of a cliff into the sea, so you can soak in it with the waves washing in. You can visit at any time of day, and we particularly loved being there at sunset.
We would happily do it again if we were nearby.
Evia in October: What to Expect from the Weather
We were really lucky. The island stayed sunny throughout our stay, with only a few raindrops on the day we left for the airport to fly home.
I mention it because the second half of October can be a little risky. It may still be warm, but the rain can already have started.
Is Evia Right for Your Next Couples’ Trip?
Evia suits couples who would rather have less crowded beaches, good food and a little exploring than a famous name.
It works best as a road trip, ideally with a sea view and a hot spring or two. Combined with a night or two in Athens, it makes an easy introduction to Greece away from the busiest islands.
Planning more of the Balkans? Explore our guides to Bulgaria and North Macedonia as part of our Balkans Travel Guide for Couples.
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About the Author
The author, ainarsbl, is a Level 7 Google Local Guide, Master Reviewer and expert travel reviewer focused on scenic landscapes, UNESCO sites and meaningful couples travel experiences.