Glass, Rocks and Beer in North-East Bohemia: A Short Czechia Road Trip for Two

At the end of April, we took a short break in Czechia that ignored Prague entirely. Prague is lovely, but we wanted a few days of countryside, a bit of craft and some proper walking. We had driven down from Poland, and after crossing the border, the winding mountain roads were a real joy to drive.

North-east Bohemia delivered. It’s a landscape of forested hills, sandstone towers and small towns where traditional crafts are still practised. Bohemia covers roughly two-thirds of Czechia, so there’s plenty to explore, but this corner is easy to cover by car. It works well as a short road trip for two, with enough variety to balance active days with slower ones.

Where We Stayed: A Lakeside Cottage Near Trutnov

We stayed at Camp Dolce, a lakeside campsite and cottage complex just outside Trutnov (Oblanov 37). We booked a cottage apartment rather than pitching a tent. It’s about two kilometres from the main road, so it was easy to find but quiet once we arrived.

What struck us first was the size of the site and, of course, the lake, which gave the place a special atmosphere. The cottage was a little rustic and showed its age, but it was very good value, and the setting made up for it.

After a long day on foot, a still lake and no traffic noise were exactly what we needed. We enjoyed walking along the shore later in the day, when everything felt particularly peaceful.

Practical note: Trutnov is a handy base for exploring this corner of Bohemia, with the Krkonoše (Giant Mountains) on one side and the Adršpach rocks on the other.

You may wish to check out Travel42 UK Travel Resources: Hotels & Campsites.

Harrachov: Watching Glass Being Made

Our first stop on arrival was Harrachov, a small mountain town best known as a ski resort. We came for the Novosad & Son glassworks.

The glassworks has been operating for more than 300 years. Its first written record dates from 1712, although glassmaking in the area is thought to be older. It’s a working factory rather than a museum piece. Sources differ on whether it’s the oldest or the second-oldest working glassworks in Bohemia, so we’ll leave the ranking to the historians.

The tour brings you close to the furnaces, and you feel the heat before you see anything. You then watch glassmasters shape molten glass by blowing, and see how pieces are cut, polished and hand-painted.

It gave us a real appreciation of how much skill goes into making a single wine glass. We believe we saw Bohemian crystal being made by hand, which helps explain the prices when it’s sold. This is demanding work that takes commitment, precision and years of experience.

One thing surprised us. We had expected a busy production floor, but during our visit, we saw only a couple of glassmasters at work. It’s worth knowing before you go: you’re watching craftspeople at close range rather than a large factory in full swing.

Next door is the Pivovar Novosad brewery restaurant, which is the obvious place to sit down afterwards. We had a hearty meal with freshly brewed beer, and the menu mixes traditional Czech dishes with more familiar international options.

After standing near a furnace, a cold glass of local beer is very welcome. We spent about four hours in Harrachov altogether, including the tour and the meal, and enjoyed the wooded mountain scenery on the way in and out.

Practical Notes

• Tours: Tour times, prices and languages change, so check the glassworks’ website before you go. At the time of writing, the basic tour was in Czech and lasted about 45 minutes. Foreign-language tours had to be booked well in advance.
• More to see: There is a glass museum on site, and the complex also has a shop and a beer spa if you want to extend your visit.
• Address: Harrachov 95 (also listed as Nový Svět 95), 512 46 Harrachov.

Adršpach-Teplice Rocks: A Day Among the Sandstone Towers

The next day was devoted to the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks, and we’d happily give them a full day again.

This is one of Czechia’s most spectacular sandstone landscapes, with towers, gorges and narrow passages shaped by erosion. It’s a protected national nature reserve, so you need to stay on the marked paths. The scenery changes constantly, from well-maintained paths to wilder stretches through the forest, making the walking more accessible than you might expect from such a dramatic landscape.

A quick geography note, because it’s often muddled online. The rocks are in the Broumovsko region, not in the Krkonoše Mountains, and they’re a different area from Bohemian Paradise (Český ráj), further west.

The rocks attract climbers, and we spotted a few people perched on top of the towers. The main entrance is near the village of Adršpach, although the rock town itself starts a couple of kilometres into the area. Before we went in, we detoured to a nearby lake and spent a while watching the cliffs reflected in the water.

Right at the end, if you’re happy to climb the steep rocky trail and queue briefly, you can take a short boat trip through a narrow flooded gorge. It shows you the rocks from the water, with the cliffs rising straight above the boat.

It came as a surprise, because we thought the walk was over until we realised there was more to see. The boat trip was well worth the effort, and we’d call it a highlight.

Practical Notes for Couples

• Tickets: The entrance ticket covers the main circuit. Check current prices and online booking arrangements before you go.
• Dogs: Dogs are allowed on a lead and need their own small ticket. The reserve’s website says dogs aren’t allowed on the boats, so if you’re travelling with a dog, one of you may need to wait while the other goes.
• Cash: Boat tickets were cash-only, in Czech crowns, when we visited.
• Timing: Allow most of a day. The main circuit is several kilometres long, with extra time needed for the lake and boat trip. Arrive early in high season.
• Guided tours: These are available, but we didn’t take one, so we can’t comment on the experience.

Safari Park Dvůr Králové: A Day with the Animals

After a day of walking, we wanted something easier, and we found it the next day at Safari Park Dvůr Králové (Štefánikova 1029, Dvůr Králové nad Labem).

It’s best known for its African animals and conservation work, including rhinos, and it’s a very different day from the glassworks or the rocks.

We saw rhinos, antelope and zebra, along with a large variety of birds. We also explored the aquarium, a tropical swamp and a Dinosaur World. The park is well laid out, with spacious enclosures that make it easy to watch the animals.

It covers around 70 hectares, so allow plenty of time and wear comfortable shoes. We spent at least four hours there without feeling rushed.

Funnily enough, the birds in the swamp remain one of our most memorable moments, although there was plenty else to see.

Practical Notes

• Safari options: There are two ways to see the African safari section: in your own car or on a safari bus or truck during the main season, roughly May to September. We took the safari ride because we’d left our car in the car park and didn’t know driving through in your own vehicle was an option. Check the arrangements before you visit, as they may vary by season. Dogs aren’t allowed on the safari vehicles.
• Prices: Admission was very reasonable when we visited, but prices may have risen since, so check before you go.

Dinner in Trutnov, Twice

Back in Trutnov, we ate at Penzion Poříčí, a guesthouse restaurant on the edge of the town centre. It was family-friendly, quiet and relaxed, with good food and attentive service. We liked it so much that we went back the following night.

That’s a small thing to put in a travel post, but anyone who has had a long day on the trails will understand. After days of driving and walking, an unhurried dinner somewhere you already know is a pleasure. We didn’t feel the need to look anywhere else.

We think what we liked most was the atmosphere and, of course, the quality of the food.

Beyond This Corner of Bohemia

This was a short trip, with about three days spent exploring the surrounding area, and it only scratches the surface.

We’ve been to Czechia quite a few times by car, often crossing the country in transit. We’ve also flown into Prague a couple of times, which has good connections with the city.

Prague is next on our list to write about, and Kutná Hora is another good destination, with its UNESCO-listed historic centre. Czechia has well over a dozen UNESCO World Heritage Sites, including Prague, Český Krumlov, Kutná Hora and the Gardens and Castle at Kroměříž.

The Czech Tourism website, VisitCzechia, is a useful starting point for planning a trip.

Is North-East Bohemia a Good Trip for Couples?

It is, as long as you like a mix of activity and unwinding.

The glassworks and the safari park offer easy, shared days. The rocks provide a proper walk, with views that make you stop and take them in together. The cottage by the lake and the quiet dinners fill in the rest.

It’s not a romantic getaway destination in the usual sense, but it suits two people who’d rather spend a few days outdoors and in small towns than in a city.

If you’re thinking of doing something similar, our advice is to base yourselves in one place, mix the active days with slower ones, and leave a bit of slack in your itinerary. Czechia isn’t a big country, so one base saves you numerous check-ins and check-outs while still putting other destinations within easy reach.

We’d happily return for more of the Krkonoše and the Broumov area. There’s something rather appealing about a road trip that combines traditional craftsmanship, dramatic landscapes, wildlife and a good beer at the end of the day.

And sometimes, that’s exactly what a few days away together should be.

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Travel42 UK is a couples travel journal dedicated to immersive road trips, slow travel, and destination storytelling.

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