Not every day in Zanzibar needs an itinerary.
In fact, some of our most enjoyable moments came from staying close to “home” – settling into the rhythm of Paje, returning to familiar paths, walking along the coast and letting the island’s pace guide us.
For most of our 17 days in Zanzibar, we were based at Hakuna Majiwe Beach Lodge, located directly on one of the most beautiful stretches of white sand on the east coast. Its position was ideal: slightly removed from the busier centre of Paje, yet close enough to walk there whenever we felt like it.
For couples like us, that balance between seclusion and access is everything.
Beach Mornings & Unplanned Afternoons
Most mornings began with birds calling outside our bungalow.
Zanzibar’s east coast is shaped dramatically by the tides – wide sandbanks appear at low tide, while luminous turquoise water returns when the ocean rises again.
We walked along the beach in both directions. Sometimes we walked barefoot along the shoreline. Other times we wore water shoes and followed the shallow water further out toward the ocean. The sand here is remarkably white and soft, almost blinding under the midday sun, though parts of the seabed can become slightly muddy when the tide goes out.
During low tide we often saw local women collecting small fish and shellfish, while fishermen worked patiently with nets in the shallow water. We watched quietly from a distance. No one seemed to mind our curiosity.
And of course, there were kitesurfers everywhere – even during low tide.
Some afternoons we stayed entirely at the lodge: reading, swimming in the pool, or simply doing nothing. That “nothing” felt surprisingly valuable. After more active days of driving and exploring the island, slowing down helped us absorb everything we had already experienced.
Walking into Paje Town
Whenever we wanted a change of scene, we walked into Paje town centre, usually later in the afternoon when the heat softened.
Paje is lively without feeling overwhelming. Kite surfers fill the beach, while small shops, dive centres and casual restaurants line the main road.
We didn’t explore much street food during this trip. Instead, we usually ate in food courts that seemed to cater more to international visitors than locals.
Prices were not extremely cheap, but the value for money was excellent. Fresh juices, cocktails, seafood and Swahili-inspired dishes were consistently good.
We often shared a starter and a main dish between us, as portions were quite large. Dinner usually cost around $20–$25 for two people, plus about $9 for two large fresh juices – watermelon, pineapple or whatever fruit happened to be in season.
Occasionally we added a Negroni from the bar ($7.50), which felt like the perfect evening drink after a warm day.
One thing did surprise us: compared with what many travellers expect from Africa, Zanzibar is not particularly cheap. However, considering the quality of service, safety, beautiful beaches and overall organisation of tourism, the prices felt reasonable.
After dinner we usually returned to the lodge by tuk-tuk – inexpensive, convenient and very much part of the Zanzibar experience. Walking long distances after dark isn’t always ideal, so this became our comfortable evening routine.
Blue Lagoon Snorkelling in Dongwe
One afternoon, while relaxing on the beach, we booked a snorkelling trip to the Blue Lagoon near Dongwe with a local excursion organiser.
It was a perfect example of Zanzibar’s informal but surprisingly efficient system.
We agreed on the price and timing directly on the beach. We didn’t pay anything in advance, although the organiser sent us a couple of reminders – probably just to make sure we hadn’t changed our minds.
On the day of the trip:
- A taxi collected us from the lodge
- The organiser collected the agreed payment
- Our taxi driver met the boat captain at the beach
- We joined the captain and walked to the waiting boat
Everything worked smoothly.
No apps. No complicated booking systems. Just people keeping their word.
We paid $90 for the trip, plus $8 tip for the captain, who was extremely friendly and answered many of our questions – and even helped us find starfish.
The Blue Lagoon near Dongwe is known for clear water and healthy coral formations. We spent about an hour snorkelling above reefs full of tropical fish, often just drifting slowly near the boat.
For couples, snorkelling together has a quiet kind of intimacy. You don’t talk much – you simply point underwater, signal to each other, and surface with shared excitement.
Water visibility was excellent, perfect for underwater photos, and the entire experience felt relaxed rather than overly commercial.
Discovering the Starfish Colony
An unexpected highlight came after visiting the reefs.
Our captain guided us to a shallow area where large colonies of starfish live. Locals know exactly where to find them.
We were amazed by the colours: red, orange, violet and many shades in between. Some even had tiny dot patterns that made them look almost artificial, like they were made from coloured glass.
And they were big – much larger than any starfish we had seen before.
We had seen starfish in Thailand years earlier, but this was something completely different.
We spent nearly half an hour simply observing them. It felt almost surreal that such colourful marine life existed just beneath the surface.
The Value of Staying in One Place
When travelling far from home, there is often pressure to see as much as possible.
But basing ourselves in Paje for most of the trip gave us something more valuable: familiarity.
By the second week:
- We started recognising familiar faces.
- The hotel staff became familiar with our relaxed routine.
- We knew the best walking routes into town.
- We had a favourite restaurant table.
- Some regular visitors even began greeting us.
That subtle sense of familiarity slowly transforms a holiday into something closer to temporary living.
For couples, this stability creates space for deeper connection. Without constantly navigating new places and logistics, you can simply enjoy conversations, slow walks and long lunches together.
FAQ: Staying in Paje and Snorkelling at Blue Lagoon
Is Paje a good base for exploring Zanzibar?
Yes, Paje is one of the best bases on Zanzibar’s east coast. It offers wide white beaches, reliable wind for kitesurfing, and easy access to inland attractions such as the Kuza Cave, Jozani Forest, and nearby snorkelling spots like the Blue Lagoon near Dongwe. At the same time, it remains relaxed enough for slow beach days.
How long should you stay in Paje?
We stayed in Paje for most of our 17-day Zanzibar trip and found it ideal. Even 4–6 nights works well, allowing time for beach relaxation, snorkelling, and a few excursions without constantly moving accommodation.
Is the Blue Lagoon snorkelling trip worth it?
Yes, especially if you enjoy relaxed snorkelling rather than large organised tours. The Blue Lagoon near Dongwe offers clear water, colourful reef fish, coral formations and even large starfish colonies. Trips are usually organised locally and feel more personal than big tour packages.
How much does a Blue Lagoon snorkelling trip cost?
Prices vary depending on negotiation and transport. Our trip cost about $90 for two people, including taxi transfer and the boat. Tipping the captain is common if they guide you around the reef and help spot marine life.
Can you book excursions directly on the beach in Zanzibar?
Yes, many excursions in Zanzibar are organised informally through local guides or beach operators. In our experience, arrangements were straightforward: agree on a price, confirm the timing, and pay on the day. Communication was simple and reliable.
Is Zanzibar expensive for travellers?
Zanzibar is not as cheap as some travellers expect from Africa, especially in tourist areas. However, prices often reflect good service, safety and well-developed tourism infrastructure. Meals for two in Paje typically range from $20–$25, with fresh juices around $4–5 and $2 for fresh coconut.
Is it safe to walk in Paje at night?
The town itself feels relaxed and friendly, but roads can be dark and uneven at night. Many visitors prefer taking a tuk-tuk back to their accommodation, which is inexpensive and convenient.
Why Paje Works So Well as a Base
Paje offers an ideal balance for travellers exploring Zanzibar:
- Wide white beaches shaped by dramatic tides
- Easy access to caves and inland attractions
- A lively but manageable town centre
- Affordable transport options (taxi and tuk-tuk)
- Plenty of casual restaurants and cafés
Staying slightly outside the busiest area – as we did – added another benefit: quiet evenings.
No loud nightlife. No traffic noise.
Just wind through palm trees and the distant sound of waves.
And during the day, the constant sea breeze felt like a lifesaver in temperatures above 30°C.
Looking back, the days when we did “less” were just as meaningful as our safari flights or dolphin tours.
In fact, we could easily have stayed a few days longer.
Zanzibar is not only about excursions. It’s about rhythm. Tides. Sunsets. Shared drinks after dusty road trips and caves to relax and enjoy life together. The simple pleasure of returning to the same beachfront room after another small adventure.
And in Paje, that rhythm felt exactly right.
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Exploring the planet together – from wild roads to quiet evenings
About the Author
The author, ainarsbl, is a Level 7 Google Local Guide, Master Reviewer and expert travel reviewer focused on scenic landscapes, UNESCO sites and meaningful couples travel experiences.